HERBAL REMEDIES
Summer gardening: herbal pleasures
by Brooke Wagenheim
Herbs have played an important part of life since ancient times—in
politics, aesthetics, romance, love, religion, health and superstition. Ancient Greeks and
Romans crowned their heroes with dill and laurel. Dill also was used by the Romans to
purify the air in their banquet halls and parsley was the cure for many stomach ailments.
Rosemary was eaten in the Middle Ages for its tranquilizing effects and as a cure-all for
headaches. Celery was used by the Abyssinians for stuffing pillows. Greek athletes used
bruised mint leaves as an after-bath lotion. In the Middle Ages, mint was important as a
cleansing agent and later was used to purify drinking water that had turned stale on long
ocean voyages. Mint also was given mystical powers; it was used to neutralize the
“evil eye” and to produce an aggressive character. Mustard was lauded by
Hippocrates, the ancient Greek physician, and Shakespeare called it a desirable condiment
in several of his plays.
Early settlers brought herbs to America for use as remedies for
illness, flavoring, storing with linens, strewing on floors or burning for their pleasant
fragrances. Some herbs were used to improve the taste of meats in the days before
preservation techniques were developed. Other herbs were used to dye homespun fabrics.
Herb gardens were almost an essential feature of pioneer homes. They adorned sunny corners
near the house in order to be readily available to the busy homemaker. As the population
of the new country grew, people from many nations brought herbs with them. This resulted
in an exchange of slips, seeds and plants. Some herbs were given magical properties,
probably because of their medicinal uses. American Indians knew uses for almost every
wild, nonpoisonous plant. The plants were used in medicines, rituals, fabric processing
and as culinary delights.
Culinary herbs
Culinary herbs are probably the most useful to herb gardeners, having
an outlandish range of uses in cooking. These herbs, because of their strong flavors, are
generally used in small quantities to add flavor. As cooking is a whimsical art,
combinations of different herbs are capable of producing quite complex flavors. Parsley is
an essential staple, used as a garnish or a flavorful addition to a variety of foods. Next
in popularity is sage—an earthy complement for stuffing, soups, casseroles, teas and
a sacred cleansing herb to burn. Other popular culinary herbs include chives, thyme,
savory, marjoram, rosemary, mint and basil.
Aromatic herbs
Oils from aromatic herbs can be used to produce perfumes, oils and
tinctures. For home use, the plant parts are used intact, often to scent linens or
clothing. While washing laundry, add a few drops of lavender oil to the rinse cycle to
provide freshness and delight. When dried, many aromatic herbs will retain their aroma for
a considerable period. Some common aromatic herbs include mint, marjoram, lovage, rosemary
and basil.
Ornamental herbs
Ornamental herbs have brightly colored flowers and foliage. Many have
whitish or light-colored flowers. Valerian has crimson blossoms while borage and chicory
are blue-flowered. Such herbs as variegated thyme, mint, lavender and chives produce
variegated foliage.
Medicinal herbs
Medicinal herbs have long been thought to have curative powers. They
should be used carefully. Some herbs are harmless while others can be severely dangerous
if consumed.
How to have your own herb garden
First, decide on the size of your herb garden; this will depend on the
amount of variety you want. You might like to grow some of the more colorful and
frequently used herbs, such as parsley and purple basil, as border plants. Keep annual and
perennial herbs separate. A diagram of the area and labels for the plants also will help.
Site and soil conditions
When selecting the site for your herb garden, consider drainage and
soil fertility. Drainage is probably the most important single factor in successful herb
growing. No herbs will grow in wet soil. If the garden area is poorly drained, you will
have to modify the soil for any chance of success. To improve drainage at the garden site,
remove the soil to a depth of 15 to 18 inches. Place a three-inch layer of crushed stone
or similar material on the bottom of the excavated site. Before returning the soil to the
bed area, mix some organic compost and sand with it to lighten the texture. Then, refill
the beds higher than the original level to allow for settling of the soil. The soil at the
site does not have to be especially fertile, so little or no fertilizer should be used
(small amounts of fish guts and blood are always better than chemical fertilizers, but
only in the proper amounts so as not to burn the plant). Generally, highly fertile soil
tends to produce excessive amounts of foliage with poor flavor. Plants such as chervil,
fennel, lovage and summer savory require moderate amounts of fertilizer. Adding several
bushels of peat or compost per 100 square feet of garden area will help improve soil
condition and retain needed moisture.
Seeding herbs
Nearly all herbs can be grown from seed. Although rust infects mints,
very few diseases or insects attack herbs. In hot, dry weather, red spider mites may be
found on low-growing plants. Aphids may attack anise, caraway, dill, and fennel. A few
herbs, such as mints, need to be contained or they will overtake a garden. Plant them in a
can or bucket; punch several holes just above the bottom rim to allow for drainage. A
drain tile, clay pot or cement block also can be used. Sink these into the ground; this
should confine the plants for several years. Herbs can also be grown in containers, window
boxes or hanging baskets. These methods will require more care, especially watering. If
possible, sow seeds in shallow boxes in late winter. Transplant seedlings outdoors in the
spring. A light, well-drained soil is best for starting the seedlings indoors. Be careful
not to cover the seeds too deeply with soil. Generally, the finer the seed, the shallower
it should be sown. Sow anise, coriander, dill and fennel directly in the garden since they
do not transplant well. Most biennials should be sown in late spring directly into the
ground. Work the soil surface to a fine texture and wet it slightly. Sow the seeds in very
shallow rows and firm the soil over them. Do not sow the seeds too deeply. Fine seeds,
such as marjoram, savory or thyme, will spread more evenly if you mix them with sand. Some
of the larger seeds can be covered by as much as one-eighth of an inch of soil. With fine
seeds, cover the bed with wet burlap or paper to keep the soil moist during germination.
Water with a fine spray to prevent washing away the soil.
Cutting and division
Cutting and division also are useful in propagating certain herbs. When
seeds are slow to germinate, cuttings may be the answer. Some herbs, however, spread
rapidly enough to make division a main source of propagation. Tarragon, chives and mint
should be divided while lavender should be cut.
Harvesting
Fresh leaves may be picked as soon as the plant has enough foliage to
maintain growth. To ensure good oil content, pick leaves or seeds after dew has
disappeared but before the sun becomes too hot. For dry, winter use, harvest leaves before
the flower buds open. Pick the seed heads as the color changes from green to brown or
gray. Wash dirty leaves and seed heads in cold water; drain thoroughly before drying.
Winter protection
Perennial and biennial herbs should be winter protected. Many herbs are
shallow-rooted, which makes them susceptible to heaving during spring thaws. Mulch with
straw, oak leaves or evergreen boughs four-inches deep to protect the plants. Apply the
mulch after the ground has frozen in early winter. Do not remove the mulch until plants
show signs of growth in early spring. Early removal could result in some early frost
damage.
Drying herbs
If you have an herb garden, you’ll find that home-dried herbs can
be more meaningful because you grew them yourself and they are just as tasty as those
bought at the store. However, proper handling is of supreme importance.
Most herbs are at their peak flavor just before flowering, so this is a
good time to collect them for drying and storage. To be certain, check drying directions
on specific herbs in a reliable reference book. Cut off the herbs early in the morning
just after the dew has dried. Cut annuals off at ground level, and perennials about
one-third down the main stem, including the side branches. Wash herbs gently in cold
running water to remove any soil, dust, bugs or other foreign material. Drain thoroughly
on absorbent towels or hang plants upside down in the sun until the water evaporates.
Strip leaves off the stalks once plants have drained and dried. Remove all blossoms.
Natural or air drying
Herbs must be dried thoroughly before storing. Herbs with high moisture
content, such as mint and basil, need rapid drying or they will mold. To retain some green
leaf coloring, dry in the dark by hanging plants upside down in bunches in paper bags.
Hanging leaves down allows essential oils to flow from stems to leaves. Tie whole stems
very tightly in small bunches. Individual stems will shrink and fall. Hang in a dark, warm
(70-80 degrees), well-ventilated, dust-free area. Leaves are ready when they feel dry and
crumbly in about 1 to 2 weeks. Seeds take longer to dry than leaves, sometimes as much as
two weeks for larger seeds. Place seed heads on cloth or paper. When partially dry, rub
seeds gently between palms to remove dirt and hulls. Spread clean seed in thin layers on
cloth or paper until thoroughly dry. You also can dry herb seeds by hanging the whole
plant upside down inside a paper bag. The bag will catch the seeds as they dry and fall
from the pod. Another method of drying herbs is to remove the leaves from the plants, wash
them and spread them thinly on screens to dry, avoiding exposure to bright light.
Cheesecloth makes a good screen material and stretches well.
Storage
When completely dry, the leaves may be screened to a powder or stored
whole in airtight containers, such as canning jars with tightly sealed lids. Seeds should
be stored whole and ground as needed. Leaves retain their oil and flavor if stored whole
and crushed just before use. For a few days, it is very important to examine daily the
jars in which you have stored dried herbs. If you see any moisture in the jars, remove the
herbs and repeat the drying process. Herbs will mold quickly in closed jars if not
completely dry. Once you are sure the herbs are completely dry, place them in the airtight
containers and store them in a cool, dry place away from light. Never use paper or
cardboard containers for storage, as they will absorb the herbs’ aromatic oils.
Namaste
Brooke Wagenheim