Mercado Central 
celebrates third anniversary

by Elizabeth Norlin

If you want an authentic taste of Latin America, you don’t have to go any farther than the heart of south Minneapolis. Modeled after a traditional Latin American market, the Mercado Central on Bloomington and Lake is made up of 41 stores that offer a selection of Mexican and El Salvadoran food, gifts, books, music, clothing, groceries and flowers. 
“We have the same kind of feel,” said Becky George, President of the Board of Directors. “We’re kind of like a mini-town.”
It’s a good way to get a taste of a Latin American market without some of the inconveniences that you find in Latin America. Many of the things that Americans take for granted you aren’t to be found in Latin America. For example, when you go to a mini-mall or strip mall here it is in an enclosed building that is climate controlled; the bathrooms are clean and free of charge, the food is safe to eat and the products are usually guaranteed. In many Latin American countries, especially Mexico, this is not so. 
Traditional indoor markets in Mexico are very crowded, with barely any room to navigate the narrow aisles between the vendors’ booths. The Mercado Central, on the other hand, is quite spacious. It has a central eating area in the middle shared by all of the restaurants. There is plenty of room to walk around or sit down for a few minutes. And the bathrooms are clean and free. In Mexico, you have to pay to use the bathroom in the markets; and because there is usually a lack of water, you have to use a bucket of water to flush the toilet. 
The building is enclosed, of course, with heat during the winter, and air conditioning on those horribly, hot, humid days we have here in Minnesota. Some Mexican markets are outdoors, with nothing but a table underneath a tarp to protect from sun or rain. The indoor markets are in a building with very high ceilings, but the doors are always open. There is no heat or air, only fans. In most of Mexico it doesn’t matter because the weather is so beautiful, and it’s actually very enjoyable to go to an open-air market. However, when it’s hot, it’s even hotter in the market, especially in the restaurant section.
Another concern about markets in Central America is food safety. If you’ve ever been to Mexico, you know about the threat of getting Montezuma’s revenge (diarrhea) or worse from drinking the water or eating food that hasn’t been properly cleaned and cooked. Most Mexicans take it for granted that people occasionally get sick from eating out—indeed, sick enough to go to the doctor. This will never happen at the Mercado. The restaurants at The Mercado Central have a good relationship with the State Department of Health, said George, thanks to several Spanish-speaking employees who work in the Department. In addition, each of the six restaurants has two food managers. This, again, is something most of us here take for granted; but, since moving to Mexico one and a half years ago, I have been sick at least six times from eating at restaurants.
All of the restaurants in the Mercado have won awards for their food. You can find traditional food like tacos, burritos, enchiladas, tortas (large sandwiches), pozole, tamales, and homemade corn tortillas. There is also a juice bar with juices made from fruits most of us here have never heard of, and a panaderia (bakery) that carries sweet bread, cookies and muffins. 
The idea for the Mercado came from Latino graduates of the Neighborhood Development Center small business training classes. It opened July 31, 1999 after three years of planning by a coalition of Catholic Charities, Interfaith Action, the Neighborhood Development Center, the Project for Pride in Living, and Whittier Community Development Corporation. 
T he Mercado Central is a cooperative run by a volunteer board of directors and functions as a small business incubator. The majority partner of each business has to be Latino. In the Latin American tradition, almost all of the businesses are family owned and operated, with the exception of a few hired employees in the res taurants. The nine-member board makes decisions on issues such as when to open and close, security, and what businesses can join the cooperative. There are no regulations on what each business can sell, but part of the appeal is that each store offers something different, said George. 
The Mercado is a success story in several areas. For many of the owners it’s been “a dream come true”, said Alex Gaz ca, owner of Fiesta Flower & Design and a native of Mexico City. Several businesses have opened second and third branches in other locations. 
“I think all of us might have a hard time standing on our own,” said George. The success has led to plans to open a second similar market in St. Paul. Three businesses will open another branch in this second market, Plaza Latina. 
Another important aspect of the Mercado is that it serves as a cultural gathering place and as a bridge to other communities. “They (Latinos) feel like they’re in their own country,” said Gazca. When the market first opened, the customers were mostly Latino, but George said there is more of a mix now, especially on the weekends. 
The Mercado has also revitalized the neighborhood. Gazca said he has seen an improvement in the safeness of the area due to more walking traffic. 
“We have made a tremendous improvement to the neighborhood,” he said. 
The Mercado will be celebrating its third anniversary in the parking lot on Sunday, August 4, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. There will be live music, prizes, food, and most of the businesses will be open.