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Beans beans: they are good for your heart
by Brooke Wagenheim
Beans have become pretty standard fare. They
are a low fat, no cholesterol, and low calorie source of high quality
protein. In the nineteenth century, before the mass production of
meat and poultry, beans were a primary source of protein for many
Americans. The widespread availability of many types of animal protein
has changed all that, but the slow moving steer from overindulgence
in meat has begun to move the pendulum in the other direction. Although
you cannot attain all of your daily nutritional nourishment from
legumes alone, they come pretty close. If you add vegetables, grains,
and, for most people, some dairy and/or meat, the picture is complete.
Beans boast three important qualities. First, they are cheap. Some
heirloom varieties that have been grown in small quantities may
be a bit pricey but, for the most part, beans are 60 to 85 cents
a pound. Second, beans are easily stored, almost never going bad.
Because they are dried, their shelf life is unlimited (Still it
is sensible to find fresh dried beans since they contain more nutrients
and they certainly cook more quickly). Finally, they are very versatile.
As a simple side dish with lemon, garlic, olive oil and a variety
of dried herbs, they make a winter dinner table very satisfying.
In a soup or stew, with or without meat, they make a hearty and
lovely meal.
Buy organic beans, from natural foods stores or from stores that
have a high turnover of them, like a Latin market. Store beans in
covered containers in a dry place. Try not to store them for longer
than a year. Since most beans are harvested late in summer, the
new crop is available in stores in the fall; and since newer beans
taste better, cook faster and retain more nutrients, it’s
worth updating. It’s rare though, to see beans actually go
bad.
Beans are cleaned by machines, which do a good job. Still, spend
a minute or two sorting through them for small rocks and twigs,
just before soaking or cooking. There are a few myths about cooking
beans; you must soak them before cooking, you must not add salt
during cooking and you must not add acid during cooking. These are
all untrue. That you must soak beans before cooking them has given
millions of people the impression that you have to make beans well
in advance. Although soaking speeds up the cooking time, it does
not do so significantly. If you soak most beans overnight, it will
shave off fifteen to thirty minutes of cooking time. If that is
important to you, by all means, soak. If you have a pressure cooker,
you can make them in around a half an hour. It has also been said
that salting beans prevents them from getting soft. The only difference
I note in cooking two pots of beans, side by side, one with salt
and one without, is that one is salty and the other is not. Similarly,
acid is said to slow cooking time for beans (and, conversely, alkaline,
like baking soda, is said to speed it up). In fact, baking soda
helps to break down the skin of beans, and acid helps skins to remain
intact. If you are looking to make a mushy bean dish, you might,
indeed add a teaspoon or two of baking soda to the pot. If however,
you like well-defined individual beans, include a little vinegar
or lemon to the water. I think it gives the beans a better flavor.
Beans give many people gas, right? Well, so does broccoli, meat
and fruit. Compounds that are not completely broken down in the
stomach cause most digestive gas. These compounds pass on to the
large intestine, more or less intact. Thus, they are never completely
digested. Beans contain these kinds of compounds, a group of carbohydrates
called oligosaccharides. There are several ways to approach this
problem. First, you can ignore it, or laugh it off. Second, eat
beans more often and you will develop a tolerance. Third, cook beans
with beano, a commercially available product that contains an enzyme
that breaks up the oligosaccharides. And fourth, soak, but soak
the right way. It is true that I don’t think soaking is really
worth it in the savings of time, but there is a series of soaking
techniques that decrease the amount of oligosaccharides in the beans.
Here are the steps to follow:
Rinse the beans.
Place them in a pot and cover with water (about 12 cups per pound
of beans).
Bring to a boil, cook for 2 minutes, and turn off heat.
Soak from one to twenty-four hours, refrigerate for longer periods.
Rinse the beans and then cook in fresh water.
This process does the trick for most people.
Here are some beans you might like to try:
Adzuki
Very small oval shaped maroon colored bean. An Asian bean, slightly
sweet flavor, sometimes made into flour or desserts. Delicious in
miso soups. Cooks in 45 minutes.
Black Beans (Turtle beans)
Medium sized, deep black with a white interior and line. Multipurpose,
most flavorful and versatile. Cooks in 1-2 hours.
Black-Eyed Pea (Cow Pea)
Ivory in color with a black spot, small and kidney shaped. Used
in Southern dishes, good with pork and dark green leafy vegetables.
Cooks in 45 minutes.
Cannellini
Looks like a white kidney bean. Cooks in 1 hour.
Chickpea (Garbanzo)
Deep beige, round with lumps and lines. Great as hummus, with pasta,
salads, tomatoes. Cooks in 2 hours.
Great Northern
Large, oval and white. One of the most common white beans. Cooks
in an hour.
Kidney
Reddish brown in color, kidney shaped. Great in chili, beans and
rice, refried beans, pureed. Cooks in a little over an hour.
Lentil
There are three major kinds: common green (or brown), red, which
are smaller and bright orange, cook quickly and tend to fall apart;
and French (not always from France), or Le puy, a tiny dark green
French variety, which takes the longest to cook and has the best
flavor. Lentils are delicious in salads, soups, Indian dals. Cooks
in 20-40 minutes.
Lima (Butter)
Large, kidney shaped, pale green. Usually eaten fresh but can come
dried. Usually cooked in dishes that call for a white bean. Cooks
in 1 hour.
Mung
Tiny, green and round. Used to make bean thread noodles and great
for sprouting. Sometimes used in dals. Cooks in 1 hour.
Navy (Pea Bean)
Small white, round bean. The most basic of white beans. Mild flavored.
Great for purees and baked beans. Cooks in 45 minutes.
Pea (Split Pea)
Whole green or more commonly split, in which they can be green or
yellow; there is little difference between the two. Great in soups,
in place of lentils and in dals. Cooks in about 30 minutes.
Pinto
From beige to rust colored, usually mottled. Good in chili, as refried
beans, purees and in soups.
Soybeans
Yellowish and round but may be other colors. Used to make tofu.
Good in cold grain salads. Does not get very soft. Cooks in 1 hour.
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